Do you have suede, nubuck, or chamois sneakers and don't know how to keep them impeccable? These materials are elegant and versatile, but they require special care. In this guide, we explain everything you need to know.
What's the difference between suede, nubuck, and chamois?
Although often confused, these three materials have distinct origins and characteristics:
- Suede: Obtained from the inner side of animal hides like lamb, pig, or calf. It has a very characteristic velvety texture, is softer and more porous than smooth leather, making it more susceptible to stains and moisture.
- Nubuck: Made from the outer side of cowhide, finely sanded to create a surface similar to suede but more resistant and durable. It is slightly stiffer and has a firmer feel.
- Chamois: Technically a type of suede, but in the footwear world, the term is often used generically to refer to any hide with a velvety finish. Strictly speaking, traditional chamois comes from the hide of antelope or deer.
In practice, the care for all three materials is very similar, although nubuck, being denser, withstands daily use a bit better.
The enemies of suede and nubuck
Before discussing how to care for them, it's good to know what damages them:
- 💧 Water and moisture: Can leave permanent marks and deform the material if not treated promptly.
- 🌧️ Heavy rain: Excessive water saturates the fibers and can cause difficult-to-remove stains.
- ☀️ Direct sunlight: Fades and dries out the fibers over time.
- 🧴 Inappropriate products: Using smooth leather cleaners or products with solvents can ruin the velvety finish.
- 🖐️ Hand grease: Repeatedly touching the material without cleaning it can leave dark stains.
How to clean suede, nubuck, and chamois sneakers step-by-step
What you need
- Specific brush for suede/nubuck (with rubber or brass bristles)
- Suede cleaning eraser
- Specific foam or cleaner for suede
- Waterproofing protective spray for suede
- A clean, dry cloth
Step 1: Dry cleaning
Before applying any product, let the sneakers dry completely if they are damp. Never apply direct heat (hair dryer, radiator). Once dry, use the suede brush with gentle strokes and always in the same direction to remove dust and lift flattened fibers.
Step 2: Remove isolated stains
For dry stains (mud, ingrained dust), use the cleaning eraser with gentle circular motions. For more persistent grease or dirt stains, apply a small amount of specific suede cleaning foam, work it in with the brush in circles, and remove any excess with a clean cloth.
⚠️ Important: Never rub forcefully or use excessive water. Overly wet suede can deform and lose its texture.
Step 3: Restore the nap
After cleaning, the material may be somewhat flattened. Use the suede brush with gentle strokes in a single direction to restore the original velvety finish.
Step 4: Protect with waterproofing spray
This is the most important step and the most often forgotten. Apply a specific protective spray for suede and nubuck from about 20-25 cm away, covering the entire surface evenly. Let air dry for at least 30 minutes before wearing the sneakers.
👉 Repeat this step every 2-4 weeks if you wear the sneakers frequently, or every time you clean them.
Preventive maintenance tips
- Protect before first use: Apply the waterproofing spray before wearing your sneakers for the first time. It's the best insurance against stains.
- Store them correctly: Use shoe trees or stuff the inside with tissue paper to maintain their shape. Store them in a breathable fabric bag, never plastic.
- Avoid rain: If you know it's going to rain, choose other footwear. If they get wet, stuff the inside with newspaper and let them dry at room temperature.
- Brush regularly: A quick brush after each use prevents dirt accumulation and keeps the nap raised.
- Alternate use: Don't wear the same sneakers two days in a row. Letting the material breathe prolongs its lifespan.
What to do if the sneakers are already very worn?
If the color has faded or discolored, there are specific dyes and renovators for suede that can restore their original color. Always apply them with the brush and in thin layers for an even result.
For very ingrained oil or grease stains that don't come out with the eraser or foam, it's best to go to a specialized cobbler before attempting more aggressive methods that could irreversibly damage the material.
Frequently asked questions
Can I wash suede sneakers in the washing machine?
No. Excessive water and mechanical agitation destroy suede fibers and permanently deform the sneaker.
Can I use the same spray I use for smooth leather?
No. Smooth leather products contain oils and waxes that can darken and weigh down suede fibers. Always use specific products.
Is nubuck cared for the same way as suede?
Yes, the process is practically identical. Nubuck is somewhat more resistant, but it benefits from the same care.
How often should I clean my suede sneakers?
A quick brush after each use and a thorough cleaning every 2-4 weeks depending on use is enough to keep them in perfect condition.
At Footarchy, you'll find all the products you need to care for your suede, nubuck, and chamois sneakers: from waterproofing sprays to complete cleaning kits. Your sneakers will thank you. 👟✨